Lonely Planet Guide to Nyapari

Orientation

The Anangu Pitjantjatjarra Yankunyatjara (APY) Lands are situated in the far north west corner of South Australia. In this remote area of Australia, the lucky tourist can experience a remote bush experience in a traditional setting unlike any other.

So rather than rushing in to join the rat race in Alice Springs or some other bustling metropolitan centre, kick back a little and take in the sights of the APY Lands in South Australia.

The APY Lands are strikingly beautiful, with immense mountain ranges, rich colours and bad roads (creating a heightened sense of danger while travelling). Not for the faint hearted, and only for those with 4WD, the APY Lands provides a remote holiday experience for the lucky few.

Nyapari

One of the westernmost communities of the APY Lands, Nyapari is a small but engaging community. With no more than 15 houses, one clinic, an artc centre, and only two staff houses, Nyapari is a quiet and comfortable place to stay. The local residents are traditional owners, or community members with long established family ties to the region. The nearby Piltati rockhole, a significant Dreaming site and source of water, provided the impetus for establishing the community when government policy facilitated the establishment of outstations in the early 80s.

Sights

The main attractions of Nyapari are the quiet and peaceful surrounds. Nestled at the base of a mountain range, with scenic views and quiet strolls through the nearby creek and waterholes, there is ample opportunity to feel the serenity.

Within the community, however, there is a surprising attraction. In 2006, a community art centre has been established by Amanda Dent (ably assisted by her partner Brian Hallett). Tjungu Palya, the art centre services two other communities, nearby Kanpi (20 k away) and Watarru (a 5 hour drive). While the art centre doesn't provide retail services (yet, there are plans to establish a tourist outlet), the art centre manager can be convinced to do a special deal for the few outside visitors that come to Nyapari. However, a warning for future tourists - any time spent helping you decide if the painting will match the colour of your couch is only going to take Amanda's time away from artists. So, be prepared to be self-sufficient, or offer your services to the art centre in return (such as straightening up their office or re-arranging the small artworks on display to better artistic effect).

In addition to making a unique purchase at the art centre (such as this 'Piltati' painting by Eileen Yartija Stevens, acquired by the author), other activities include a trip to the nearby Kanpi store, and strolling to nearby rockholes. While the scent of a rotting camel was evident on a recent visit to the main waterhole near Nyapari, this will soon disappear and the bones will no doubt be a further scenic addition to the area.

Guests at the sole Nyapari accommodation (see below) will also be able to spend the ample time on their hands by working through their hosts' fine library collection, including books on exchange from the other resident staff member and art magazines ordered by subscription.

Sleeping and Eating

Accommodation and dining options in Nyapari are limited. The only available accommodation is the home of Amanda and Brian. Bookings are tight, but can be arranged with considerable notice and much persuasion (such as offers to bring Easter chocolate treats, not stay longer than 4 nights, and to tell no-one of the experience).

Amanda and Brian are amiable and relaxed hosts. Each evening, in lieu of other dining options, they prepare sumptuous meals with flair and creativity reminiscent of their day jobs. Their home has been artfully renovated by Amanda, creating a stunning effect resembling an Ikea catalogue.

Getting There and Away

Nyapari is 5 hours from the nearby bustling metropolis of Warburton, and 3 hours from Uluru (Ayers Rock). Most visitors would come to Nyapari via Uluru, hiring a vehicle from the airport and taking the back road south over a bone-shattering 4WD road that is, as far as can be determined, never graded.

Permits are required. Permits are only issued to visitors with a valid reason for travelling to the APY Lands. This does not include visiting Amanda and Brian as tourists. It does extend to those holding permits on the nearby Ngaanyatjarra Lands, wishing to travel through the APY Lands to Alice Springs. It also extends to those holding permits to see their friends. All in all, getting there and away is probably the hardest thing about visiting Nyapari.

Getting Around

4WD only. While in Nyapari, however, one can easily take in the sights on foot. There is no public transport available in Nyapari. A public transport link from southern South Australia into the APY Lands has been proposed, but at this stage it is only anticipated to extend into the easternmost communities, thereby missing all communities west of Amata (including Nyapari).

(Author wishes to thank Amanda and Brian, who took a booking very generously over the Easter holiday period. This extract will be submitted for Lonely Planet 'Central Desert Aboriginal Australia' edition, when it is proposed for printing.)